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CORMA DI MACHABY:
Area "CASE FARA"
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"Dzerby" and "Mitico Vento" are the two easiest route of this area. The first one is a very easy climb with a few moves of 5b. The second one is more sustained and harder (some moves of 6a - 6b). Fixed protection tends to be widely spaced but placed where needed (even if many routes have been recently re-equipped and more bolts have been added). However bolts are placed where needed and nuts, cams or slings can be used.
APPROACH: From the parking lot, cross rightwards the meadow beyond the restaurant towards the woods. Follow the path for about 10 minutes to the foot of the cliff. Past "Carlito Road" follow a ruined wall and take the path on the left to the rock: "lo Dzerby" and "Mitico Vento" start at a grassy terrace, near "Urca Urca".
DESCENT: Follow the main path on the summit, the hike down rightwards. Past a fence reach the hamlet of Machaby. At the restaurant "Lo Dzerby", take the left fork and reach the road that will get you to the parking lot in less than an hour (take always the left fork).
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CLIMBING:
LO DZERBY: (by Tito Sacchet e Carlo Prina - updated June 2007) - a 400m, not sustained route, with fixed protection.
PITCH 1 (25m - 5a): Climb straight up for 15m or so (some good holds on the right side); then bear left up a steeper wall to an anchor belay (5 bolts)
PITCH 2 (20m - 3a): Nice climb, diagonally left, good holds. Anchor belay (3 bolts)
PITCH 3 (30m - 3c): Climb straight up the slab (excellent friction). Continue for about 20 m, then bear right: reach a terrace under a little roof past another slab (5 bolts)
PITCH 4 (45m - 5b): Overcome the roof above (good holds) and continue leftwards. Then straight up to the belay (12 bolts)
PITCH 5 (40m - 5c): Straight up, then leftwards to a ledge. From the end of the ledge, trend rightwards across the slabby wall above (a good hold on the left), reach another ledge, climb the vertical wall on the left and reach the belay (9-10 bolts).
PITCH 6 (scrambling: 40m - III-II): Climb a short wall, then up easier slab. Follow a faint path to a tree. You can either set up a belay here or reach the beginning of the next pitch (2-3 bolts)
PITCH 7 (50m - 3b): Climb a wall, continue up a low angle corner and up another vertical wall to a terrace. Continue climbing leftwards for 8 meters or so to the belay on the terrace above (6 bolts)
PITCH 8 (45m - 4b): Climb straight up for about 40 meters, then trend right (6 bolts)
PITCH 9 (scrambling: 35m - 3): Climb straight up, then diagonally left to a terrace with a tree belay.
PITCH 10 (35m - 3a): Climb a shallow corner for about 15 meters, then rightwards to the belay.
Continue by another 70-80 meters (3 pitches) of easy slab climbing (some moves of 3) to the last belay.
Follow the faint path up towards some old ruined walls to join the hiking trail to the summit (rightwards).
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MITICO VENTO: (Tito Sacchet e Roberto Munarin - updated 2003) - a 400m climbing with some delicate moves (almost at the beginning of the route) and 2 cruxes: a 6b roof on pitch 9 (6b free or A0) and a delicate 6a move with a potentially dangerous runout on pitch 12.
PITCH 1 (25m - 5b): Almost friction climbing (5 bolts)
PITCH 2 (25m - 4b): Continue straight up on easier slab (5 bolts)
PITCH 3 (30m - II): Scramble rightwards for about 30m (place a sling around a tree in the middle of the ...pitch)
PITCH 4 (25m - 3b): Straight up for 10 meters or so, then diagonally right, straight up and diagonally left.
PITCH 5 (30m - 5b): Pull the well protected roof and climb up easier rock.
PITCH 6 (20m - 3b): Traverse rightwards
PITCH 7 (40-45m - 4c): Climb the ramp rigthwards with widely spaced bolts (5/6 meters)
PITCH 8 (40-45m - 5b): Continue up the more vertical arete. Good hols. Widely spaced bolts
PITCH 9 (45m - 6b): Traverse rightwards to a very smooth slab. The crux: 6b free or A0
PITCH 10 (25m - 3b): A relaxing pitch after the 6b roof!
PITCH 11 (25m - 4b-4c): Another low commitment climbing.
PITCH 12 (35m - 6a): Sustained and strenuous 6a pitch. Start climbing a strenuous corner, followed by a delicate slab and finally a strenuous crack.
PITCH 13 (25m - 3c): Easy pitch to the summit.
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