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Monte Coudrey:
Pà Raumer e i suoi pargoli
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Updated March 2007
Enjoyable link-up of 3 routes.
After the first 3 easy pitches, reach the most beatiful (and hard) section following the path through the woods. The third section (2 pitches) is easy but worth the climb.
Most belay stations are equipped with chain and rap ring. Crux moves are very well protected.
Established by Tito Sacchet and Roberto Munarin (1999/2000) from the ground up.
Difficulty: D+ / 5b (obl. 4a)
Length: 300 m - start of the climb at about 800 m.
Gear: 10 draws - slings and carabiners to set up a belay at a tree - 2 50m-ropes
APPROACH: From the parking area continue up the dirt road and take the first fork entering the woods. Cross the bridge and continue up through the chestnuts following the path (red balls).
This is the descent path from the lower tier routes (Olimpic Spirit, T.Rex, ...). After about 10 minutes, you will reach the fork to the sector "Lawrence" (single-pitch climbs). Continue up (left fork) to a viewpoint; follow the signs to "nuove vie" (new routes) twice and continue past the climbs "Gary and Erik" and "Asso di Macumba" to a wide slab with "Pà Raumer e i suoi pargoli" painted on it - 2 bolts at the beginning of the route (about 30 minute hiking from the parking area).
As alternative you may climb "I Marimba", a 2-pitch route (4a, 4c), and follow a faint path rightwards through the woods to the second section of "Pà Raumer e i suoi pargoli".
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THE CLIMB:
Pitch 1: Up easy slab, just right of a corner. Continue up easier slab, climb a short wall (4b) then rightwards again up slab to the chain belay with rap ring (35m - 8 bolts)
Pitch 2: Diagonally right up easy slab (3b) to a ledge. Bolted anchor with old sling (45m - 2 bolts)
Pitch 3: Very easy slab (rigthwards) to a tree (15-18m - no bolts).
Hike down to the woods (follow the fixed cable) then up (red circle signs) to the start of the second section of the route (two big chestnuts leaned against the rock and a wide crack).
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The "Placche rosse" rock
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Pitch 4: Climb the wide corner crack, which narrows and curves rightwards (5b). Do a traverse move to get the belay on a slanting ledge (30m - 5 bolts)
Pitch 5: Follow the crack rightwards (5b) and finish up easier slab to the next belay (40m - 6 bolts)
A short scramble leftwards to reach the rock.
Pitch 6: Climb the short corner rightwards (4b), than a ridge and finish with easy climbing to the ledge above. Tree belay. (40-45 m - 3 bolts)
From here you can either follow the path down to the base (red balls) or continue climbing the third section.
Pitch 7: Climb the slabby wall. You can either belay here or, better with 50m ropes, continue for 5-6 m to reach the second belay (45 m - 5 bolts)
Pitch 8: Continue rightwards up the arete (4a) to the belay (50m - 10 bolts)
DESCENT: You can either abseil off the last belay or traverse rightwards to reach the last belay of "Cpt.Walker" (near a tree). With 50m ropes you need to do a 3 pitch abseil, but with 60m ropes you can link the first two stages.
From the base follow the faint path rightwards (red balls) to the parking area.
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