Info, images and topo by D. Collino - October 2008

The Guglia di San Bernolfo rises on the North-Western branch of Rocca di San Bernolfo range.
Three climbing routes reach the summit of the buttres: you can abseiling from here or continue climbing the airy ridge to the peak (Guglia di S.Bernolfo) and back to the base with a 25 minute scrambling.

Approach: Drive along the Stura valley (towards Sambuco) and take the left fork at Pianche. Pass Bagni di Vinadio and continue towards S.Bernolfo. Reach a fork with a road sign to Rif. Laus (Rif. De Alexandri Foches): take the right fork (instead of the left one as shown). After a few bends you will reach the village of S.Bernolfo. Park on the left side of the road just below the village.

Walk up the slope and turn left to take a dirt road. Take the first path on the right, entering the woods; pass the refuge (about half an hour from parking lot) and continue the lake above. The refuge is open in the Summer and only at weekends in September.

Just before the lake, on the saddle, bear right following the trail to the Rocca di San Bernolfo (signs). Pass the rock climbing gym of the refuge and reach a huge amphitheatre surrounded by the Rocca, the Guglia and the wide slabs of the climbing route "Reverso Perso". Continue hiking and reach the base of the Guglia. From here hike up the alluvional fan heading the first bolt.

Climbs on the east side of the Guglia di S.Bernolfo

Ezio establishing the first pitch of Nunatak (5c)

MAKITA - Calvi Sergio, Alessandria Franco - 2002
Makita is the first route from the left. It starts at a narrow corner with a golden bolt.
Length: 150 m up to the top of the route (avancorpo) and 350 m to reach the Guglia
Difficulty: 5b
Gear: small and medium sized cams
Descent: abseiling back down the route from the top or hiking down from the Guglia

NUNATAK - Camisassa Ezio, Collino Danilo, Fea Katya - 2004
The route starts a few meters right of "Makita" and reaches the top climbing up slabs, corners, ridges becoming easier and easier.
A few fixed protecion along the route.
Length: 200 m up to the top of the route (avancorpo) and 400 m to reach the Guglia
Difficulty: 5c / 5b
Gear: small and medium sized cams requested
Descent: abseiling back down the route from the top or hiking down from the Guglia

I DOI LILU - Collino Danilo, Ippolito Gianluca - 2005
This is the most difficult climb of the wall. It starts on the right of "Nunatak" and continue rightwards up the slabs near the western wall.
A few fixed protecion along the route.
Length: 225 m up to the top of the route (avancorpo) and 450 m to reach the Guglia
Difficulty: 6a+ / 5c
Gear: small and medium sized cams requested
Descent: abseiling back down the route from the top or hiking down from the Guglia

Climbing in Stura Valley: Guglia di S. Bernolfo (m. 2600) - East face Makita - Nunatak - I dou Lilu

Climbing in Stura Valley:
Guglia di S. Bernolfo (m. 2600) - East face
Makita - Nunatak - I dou Lilu