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titolo: la montagna per tutti
Gear || Climbing routes || Boulder ||


WE SPEAK ABOUT:
ROCK CLIMBING:

Climbing in Stura valley:
Cima di Rena Grossa (2356 m.) - SPERONE NORD (North Ridge)

Updated July 2006
This is a trad rock climb, of low commitment, on some lichened rock. Climbers need to verify fixed anchors and place extra protection.
This route can be climb just after other routes, such as: "Francesca" at Rocca Auta or "Felicità" at Anticima ENE del Lausfer.


View Topo
Difficulty: D- / 4c.

Length: 150 m.

Gear: 2 50m. ropes - Slings / cordelettes, nuts and medium sized cam.

Approach: Take the left fork after Vinadio and drive through the Vallone di Sant'Anna to the shrine.
Continue up a steeper and narrow road for a few hundred meters to a big boulder named "masso dell'apparizione" ("apparition rock") - wide parking lot.



To reach directly the beginning of the route (if you'd rather not climb "Francesca" or "Felicità" before), hike the trail to the lake at the Sant'Anna Pass (left fork from the gta trail) and then to the Lausfer pass. Pass a renovated building (2335 m. - shown on the map) and continue for about ten minutes until a boulder partly blocks the trail. (40 minutes from the parking lot).


Paolo Longo sulle placche dell'ultimo tiro
Paolo Longo climbing on the last pitch
pitch 1 Start up the left side of the arete (near the boulder): climb a short corner with a crack (a just visible, rusty peg - about 4 meters - a IV move). Scramble to a short wall and climb it (IV). Climb another corner to gain the belay ledge (45 m. - 4c - 1 piton).
Dopo il diedro (passo di IV), si "cammina" fino ad un muretto di qualche m (IV). Un altro diedro raggiunge un terrazzino con due chiodi per la sosta (45 m - 4c - 1 chiodo).

Pitch 2 Climb a slab reaching the ridge. Continue up the arete. Set the belay at a thread with a cord or continue for some meters to reach a wide ledge on the right where set up a belay using cracks or outcrops of rock. (45 m - 4c - 1 piton).

Pitch 3 Climb off the ledge into a corner leading to the ridge: continue for some meters to reach another wide ledge (20 m. - 4b - 1 piton).

Pitch 4 Continue up the left side of the ridge and then up the ridge. The last belay is at the base of a rock system (watch out for loose rocks!) - (30 m. - 4c - 3 pitons).

Scramble up boulders to the summit.

From the summit scramble down and left to reach the approach trail.




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