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ROCK CLIMBING GEAR: CARABINERS
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Carabiners< are widly used in mountain activities. Carabiners are widly used in mountain activities. Carabiners generally connect the rope to any other safety device (pitons, harness, descender, belay devices...). Carabiners are provided with a lock system (spring loaded gate or screwgate) to prevent them from becoming accidentally opened. They are constructed from light alloy. There are several different shapes of carabiners:
D-shaped carabiners: these are in the shape of a D and move most of the force onto the spine of the carabiner which is the strongest part. D-shaped carabiners with non-locking gate are used for quickdraws: those with straight gate will attach to bolt anchors; those with bend gate are used to connect ropes to quickdraws as the bent gate ensures fast clips.
Pear/HMS carabiners: (see picture below): pear shaped carabiners are oversized, offset-D carabiners. They are mainly used for securing yourself when you are top roping and also for belaying: the idea behind the pear-shaped carabiner is to provide ample room for the hitch to function properly.
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Quickdraws: A quickdraw consists of two D-shaped carabiners (one with a straight gate and the other with a bend gate) connected by a pre-sewn loop of webbing. Quickdraws are used to attach the climbing rope to bolt anchors or other protection, while lead climbing. They allow the rope to run through freely.
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A quickdraw consists of two carabiners connected by a loop of webbing
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Oval carabiners: These are weaker than "pear" models so they are mostly used to connect the rope to the anchor while top roping or to connect the descender performing an abseil descent.
Care: Clean gates by blowing dust and dirt from the hinge area and lubricate their spring. Carabiners lifetime depends on how you use them: check your carabiners regularly for cracks or corrosion. Make sure that the gate opens and closes properly. If the gate does not function properly, or if it's askew or bent, retire the 'biner. Carabiners that have been dropped a significant distance or are damaged should also be retired. Climbing carabiners are UIAA and CE marked. The maximum loads, marked on connectors, are referred to these conditions: major axis with closed gate (that is the usual condition), minor axis with closed gate, and finally major axis with open gate.
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