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CLIMBING GEAR: DESCENDERS
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These devices are friction brakes which are designed for descending ropes. Many belay devices can be used as descenders, but there are descenders that are not practical for belaying, since it is too difficult to feed rope through them.
Their aim is to brake a fall (when belaying) or to block the rope (backup brake devices).
The most commonly descender is the "eight", but good devices are also the "spring plate" and the more recently "bug (bugette)" or other tube-style devices. The latter may also be used as a belay device, making belaying more dynamic than the eight.
A versatile device is the "belay plate". It is a very good descender and it is also a very handy belay device: you can bring up one or two seconds together and if one falls, the rope will automatically lock off. Belay plates are not designed for belaying the lead climber, but it is possible (even if not practical) by the use of 2 'biners.
There are devices called "Auto-locking belay devices" specific for belaying the lead climber and when climbing top rope (such as "gri-gri" and "yo-yo") and other ones, called "backup brake devices" whose aim is to lock off the rope (such as "shunt"). Neither auto-locking belay devices nor backup brake devices can be used for descending ropes.
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Manufacturers provide each device with instructions for correct use and warranty.
Although descenders and belay devices are made of high quality steel and aluminum alloy, the materials will wear with time. The stress of everyday use and rope rubbing cause their thinning. Thus you should ckeck your hardware and keep it clean.
Care. Keep your devices clean and lubed. Wash in water and leave them to dry in a cool, well-ventilated place. Store them in the shade, away from moisture, acid or any heat sources (these suggestions are the same of all climbing gear).
As concerns descenders, avoid abseiling too fast: as this will accelerate wear and can burn the rope (as a matter of fact descender is very hot after a long abseil).
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