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ORCO VALLEY
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Orco Valley lies between the Levanne massif to the South and the Gran Paradiso National Park to the North. The valley is an excellent place for mountain activities.
Orco Valley is yet a severe, extraordinary and almost unpolluted environment where hiking and climbing require a good physical conditions.
From the second part of the '70s a lot of climbers (most of them from Tourin) began to establish climbing routes, following the Yosemite myth. This is the reason why the valley was called "Yosemite Valley of Piedmont".
"Il Nuovo Mattino" on Caporal is the symbol of the day: the pleasure of rock climbing is more important than reaching the summit of a mountain.
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Personalities in the climbing world as Kosterlitz, Motti, Manera, Grassi (and many others!) first climbed several new routes up these great walls.
Bibliography: "Rock Paradise" by Oviglia (aside from climbing route descriptions this guide is worth reading for the analysis of history, characters and environment).
Please note that climbing routes have been graded in an era when the top grade was VI, therefore a 5c is often severe and hard.
Moreover, bolts are widely spaced and adding fixed protection is usually considered unacceptable; therefore climbers attempting these routes need to be competent in their route finding, anchoring and rappelling skills.
This area provides superb granite and varied climbing (cracks, corners, slabs, overhangs).
APPROACH. Motorway A5, exit Ivrea. Take route SS 565 of Castellamonte ("Pedemontana") to reach route SS 460: follow signs to Cuorgné and then to Ceresole Reale. |
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