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ORCO VALLEY
Torre di Aimonin - "VIA DELLO SPIGOLO"
Superb route, ascending a ridge, with a pitch graded 5c, but... it is just an Orco Valley's grading system !!
Difficulty: TD- / 5C.
Lenght: 170 m.
Gear: friend - Two 50 meter twin rope.
APPROACH: Drive along the road that picks up the Orco valley, towards Ceresole Reale up to Noasca. Park your car and walk uphill towards the waterfall. Go behind the church and take a path leading to the Noaschetta valley (turn right just before the waterfall - signs on boulders). The path traverse right, becoming steeper and steeper. Then scramble up a rocky and grassy gully on the left (20/25 minutes from Noasca).
Pitch 1 Climb a ramp diagonally right, reaching the base of a corner up a wide ledge (fixed anchor - 1 bolt - 5);
Pitch 2 Ascend the right facing corner. Climb a 4 meter wall (possibilities for cams) and move off the corner (5a). Climb the slab above (follow the blue signs) and reach the belay (5b, 2 pitons).
Pitch 3 Climb the ramp diagonally right (reddish rock). Pull over a roof (good handholds), follow the ledge to the right and continue climbing diagonally left up a slab to a tree belay (5c, 2 bolts).
Pitch 4 Climb the slab diagonally right until underneath a roof. Pull over the roof (crux graded 5c..!) and exit up an easier slab, reaching a niche belay (5c .. 3 bolts and a piton).
Pitch 5 Exit the niche with an awkward move and traverse left up a slab. Follow the ever narrowing crack (possibilities for nuts) to a faint ledge. Traverse left to reach the fixed belay (5c - 2 bolts).
Pitch 6 Gain the wide ledge above, climbing a wall with good holds. Continue up the corner above and reach the belay (5b - 2 bolds).
Pitch 7 Climb diagonally left the slab above to reach the final belay (watch out for loose rocks - 4c - 2 bolds).
DESCENT Rappel down along the ascent route. You can by-pass the niche belay: the alternative belay is at the left (facing the rock) of the tree of the 3rd pitch, on the edge. From here the last 45 m. rappel to reach the base of the buttress. |
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