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titolo: la montagna per tutti
Gear || Climbing routes || Boulder ||


WE SPEAK ABOUT:
ROCK CLIMBING:

Climbing in Stura Valley:
Rocca di S. Bernolfo (q. 2681) - Anticima North-East
Reverso Perso - Frizzantina



Info, pics and topo by D.Collino, October 2008

You can see the Anticima alla Rocca di S.Bernolfo ever since driving to S.Bernolfo.

From the Refuge Laus, hike towards the saddle of S.Bernolfo. Just before the lake, on the saddle, bear right following the trail to the Rocca di San Bernolfo (signs). Pass the rock climbing gym of the refuge and reach the Chiot della Roccia, a huge amphitheatre surrounded by the Rocca, the Guglia and the wide slabs of the climbing route "Reverso Perso".
Take a faint path (sign "diretta" on a rock) towards the Rocca.
Scramble up loose rock toward the base of the route (red bolt - 40 minutes)




Climbs on Rocca di S.Bernolfo


Massimo climbing Reverso Perso (5b)


Reverso perso: a few meters to the top (4a)




Reverso Perso (topo by Danilo Collino)



REVERSO PERSO Collino Danilo, Pagliero Massimo 2004

A slab climb on excellent rock with a wonderful sight of the lake from the last pitch. You can easily climb to the summit of the rock.
Fixed protection.

Length: 230 m + 100 m to the summit
Difficulty: 5b
Gear: standard climbing equipment
Descent: abseiling back down the route.



Upper slabs

Frizzantina (topo by Danilo Collino)
FRIZZANTINA Collino Danilo Pagliero Massimo 2004

A 4-pitch climb up the north face heading to a wide ledge under the summit of Rocca di San Bernolfo. The second pitch is covered by some moss and the third pitch climbs a difficult slab.
The route starts about 150 m. on the right of "Reverso Perso" and climbs on the right of a clear corner. Fixed protection.

Length: 150 m.
Difficulty: 6b / 5c
Gear: small and medium sized cams
Descent: abseiling back down the route.



Danilo climbing the crux of Frizzantina (6b)




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