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"Superbianciotto" - Punta Cristalliera
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Updated July 2009
This route was established by F.Michelin and C.Bocco on June 1999, making some changes to the old route "Spigolo Bianciotto" (year 1951). The majority of the route is in the 5b-5c range with a couple of moves of 6a.
Bolts are widely spaced but the climb is easily protectable almost everywhere with nuts and small to medium sized cams.
Belay stations are equipped with abseil rings, but abseiling back down the route is not advisable since your ropes could get stuck.
The rock is general good: just watch out for some unstable flakes in the higher section of the climb.
The first pitch remains in the shade until noon.
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Getting There:
Drive along the Chisone Valley (SS 23) to Depot, just beyond Villaretto Chisone. In the village turn right, following signs to Pra Catinat - Rif. Selleries.
After 8 km take the right fork to the Rif. Selleries. Continue on the dirt road for about 5 km, reaching the refuge Selleries at 2030m.
Approach: From the wide parking lot take the trail n. 339 beyond the refuge; after 50 m take the ever steepening path on the left. At the saddle take the right fork: pass the "Begerie del Laus" (the park keeper box) and reach the Laus lake (at 2259m., with a little isle). Continue to the another lake (Lago della Manica, at 2365 m.) and scramble up the scree on the right side of the lake to the base of the central pillar of the Punta Cristalliera. The climb starts in the corner at the very bottom of the pillar (a blue arrow painted on the rock and a blue bolt indicate the route).
View from the beginning of the route
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the beginning of the route |
Difficulty: TD- / 6a (obl. 5c)
Length: 230 m.
Gear: 2 x 50m-ropes, 7-8 quick-draws, nuts and small to medium sized cams..
PITCH 1: Climb the corner and the crack leftwards. Reach the belay under an overhang (18 m - 6a - 4 draws)
PITCH2 Traverse right for a couple of meters and step around an arete. Climb diagonally left up a slab to a corner, climb it (good holds on the left side) to the belay (18 m - 6a - 7 draws)
PITCH 3 Climb up some slabs and an overhanging wide crack, following the blue bolts (20 m - 5b/c - 6 draws).
PITCH 4 Climb up slab, overcome a roof on the left heading a clear corner. Climb it for a few meters, then step around to the right (ignore the peg above you in the crack). Climb the arete (some bolts on the left side) heading the belay on slab to the right (35 m - 5c - 6 draws) |
Pitch 4
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PITCH 5 Follow a faint ledge rightwards heading a narrow gully (ignore the belay below). Continue traversing right to the belay near a crack (20 m - 4a - 4 draws)
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PITCH 6 Traverse right (1 bolt) to gain a shelf in the gully. Follow the crack (watch out for a suspect flake) to a ledge, climb the roof above and continue straight up to the belay on a wide ledge (30 m - 5c/6a - 6 draws)
PITCH 7 Climb diagonally right and pass between two rocks, heading a corner. Climb the corner and exit right (35 m - 5c, then 4c - 1 bolt and 2 slings in the corner).
PITCH 8 Continue rightwards to a steep wall. Climb up the slab to the top (35 m - 5b/5c - 5 draws).
Scramble leftwards just below the ridge and down on the narrow ledge to its end. Continue down and left for a few meters then up and right heading the summit cross.
Descent: Past the summit cross, scramble down the scree to the "Colle superiore di Malanotte" or "Colle della Cristalliera" (at 2680 m). Heading the lakes ("della Manica" and "del Laus"), reach the approach trail.
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The last pitch |
Friends on the summit ...
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The Punta Cristalliera
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