Climbing rope is the most important safety device. Ropes used for climbing are dynamic ropes. Dynamic ropes are designed to absorb the energy of a falling climber. When a climber falls, the rope stretches, reducing the maximum force experienced by the climber, his belayer, and his equipment (impact force).
Climbing ropes are typically of kernmantle construction, consisting of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres (nylon and perlon). The core provides about 70% of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core from the sun and abrasions and gives the rope desirable handling characteristics.
ROPE DIAMETER The most popular form of sport climbing rope is "single rope". Single climbing ropes are typically between 10mm - 11mm in diameter and carry the symbol 1 and the UIAA mark. In traditional climbing "half ropes" are generally more popular; they are between 8mm-9mm in diameter, carry the symbol 1/2 and have to be used in pairs (even if they can be used as two separate lifelines). Another kind of climbing ropes are "twin ropes". Twin ropes must be used in pairs too; the difference between twin ropes and half ropes is that twin ropes constitute a single lifeline.
However ropes are progressively becoming thinner and lighter due to progress in technology: ultimate single ropes are less than 10mm in diameter.
LENGTHS Climbing ropes are typically between 50 meters and 60 meters (even if you can find ropes up to 100 m. long). In sport climbing, 60 m. ropes are better (many one-pitch routes are longer than 25 m.; thus, a rope longer than 55-60 m. is required to descend); in traditional climbing 50-55 m. ropes are most popular. As already said, progress in technology allow to make longer ropes. Longer ropes allow longer pitches and rappels, so climbers who open new routes aim to stretch the pitches. |
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More details about one-pitch route, rappelling and single and half ropes are in the "courses" section.
MAINTAINING YOUR ROPE: On storing your rope it is strongly advised that you store it in the shade, away from moisture, acid, oils or any heat sources (never in your car parked in the sun!). Sometimes (depending on use frequency and dirty that had picked up) wash it in cold water, without soap. Drying should be done in the shade away from direct sources of heat (for preference hung up in circulating air). Take care not to tread on the rope (with crampons is really forbidden!!!).
Finally some periodic checks are to be made: visually inspect and pinch any piece of your rope between your fingers to look for sheath damage.
When inspecting rope, look for cuts, gouges, badly abraded spots, seriously worn surface yarns, considerable filament or fiber breakage along the line where adjacent strands meet (light fuzzing is acceptable), particles of broken filament or fibers inside the rope between the strands (check inside the rope), discoloration or harshness that may mean chemical damage or excessive exposure to sunlight. Check filaments and fibers for weakness or brittleness. However, a single rope weekly used in-season of average intensity should be retired after 5 years and a half rope after 2,5 years (except falls, of course!).
Distrust borrowed ropes: knowing the history, number of suffered falls and care of your climbing rope is critical.
An oddness: laboratory tests demonstrate that a good stored rope (away from heat sources and moisture, in the shade and in circulating air) keeps original mechanical features also over the warranted period (5 years).
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