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CORMA DI MACHABY - PARETONE:
Diretta al banano
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Updated October 2007
Probably the easiest route at Paretone with good and not widely spaced bolts for protection. Belay anchors have a ring for rappelling, but the best way to descend is to hike down the path from the summit.
The route is mostly slab climbing with some enjoyable moves up flakes and corners and a couple of easy overhangs.
Thanks to its sunny exposure, you can climb here almost all year long.
> From the 4th pitch follow bolts right, while bolt line on the left is a 6a+ climb.
Difficulty: D+, 5c (5b obl.)
Length: 280 m. (the route starts at 500 m)
Gear: 8-9 quick-draws, 2 50m-ropes
Approach: Take the highway A5 Torino-Aosta, exit at Verrs and drive towards Torino on SS 26. Past Arnad and the second highway viaduct, park in the parking lot at the end of the straight, on the left side of the road.
>From the parking lot take the trail (fixed rope and steel steps in places) to the start of the climbing routes. As you reach "Bucce d'Arancia" bear left following the wall to "Diretta al Banano" (about 15-20 minutes from the parking lot).
Descent:: Follow the path up and right in the woods. At a fence, continue ahead (do not turn left!) to the village of Machaby. At the restaurant "Lo Dzerby" take the left fork and reach the road that will get you to the parking lot in less than an hour (take always the left fork).
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CLIMBING:
PITCH 1 (30m - 5c): Climb up slab to a narrow ledge. From here you can either climb the short but slippery wall with few holds or by-pass it on the left. Continue diagonally left to the belay anchor (6 bolts).
PITCH 2 (30m - 4b): Continue straight up, then slightly right up featured rock. Climb the flake above and finish up easier rock (6 bolts)
PITCH 3 (40m - 4a): Follow the corner on the left, then climb up slab to a tree ledge. To prevent rope drag you can set up a tree belay here. (5 bolts)
Sonia leading pitch 3
PITCH 4 (35m - 5c): Climb straight up slab and continue up the corner until underneath the roof. Overcome the roof on the left and go up a featured slab to the belay (8 bolts)
Carlo leading pitch 4
PITCH 5 (30m - 5b/5c): Head up to the small roof above. Climb the shallow corner on the left, then angle right. Pull the small roof above (good holds) to a belay. (7 bolts)
PITCH 6 (40m - 5a): Climb the slab diagonally rightwards. Step around a sort of arete and continue up a slab. Traverse left. Easier climbing leads to a belay. (7 bolts)
PITCH 7 (30m - 4b): Straight up, then rightwards to an overhang with good holds. Climb slightly rightwards up a vertical slab and continue more easily to a tree belay. (6 bolts)
PITCH 8 (40m - 4a): Climb an easy wall on the left and another on the right. Easier climbing with some suspect rock leads to a belay (5 bolts)
PITCH 9 (30m - 3): Easy slab climbing to the summit (3 bolts)
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