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The Varaita Valley:
Triangolo della Caprera (2763 m.) - "Via Angelo Gaido" route.
July 2006 updated.
Great route established by F.Michelin in 1984 in memory of Angelo Gaido.
The route is found on the slabby wall of the Triangolo della Caprera, following series of cracks and corner systems. The climb surmounts the clear upper overhang on the left.
Belay anchors are available for abseiling too. The route is protected, but there are long runouts between bolts. However there are many possibilities for nuts and cams.
Difficulty: TD- / V+ with a short section of VI-
Lenght: 400 m.
Gear: medium nuts and cams - 2 50m. ropes.
The route starts above the rock base, being reached scrambling up the ledges on the left side of the base.
However, Michelin established in 2004 a 3-pitch route allowing you to start climbing just from the base (with 60 m. ropes you can link p2 and p3). This 100m climb starts about 10 m. left of the right end of the wall (IV - watch out for loose rocks).
Itinerario di salita
Paolo Longo at the end of pitch 1.
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Pitch 1 From the upper belay of the 3-pitch climb, go left (name of the route on the rock). Climb the slabby section with good handholds up to a detached flake. Following the crack, surmount a wall (V) and continue to the belay up the slab on the right (IV, V) - 45 m.
Pitch 2 Move left and follow the crack (V, a V+ move) to a corner under an overhang with pinetree on the left. Climb the corner and reach the belay with slings (IV) - 40 m. Warning: traversing right you will reach another route (Via dei Carmagnolesi).
Pitch 3 Continue climbing the corner and exit left up the slab. Climb ahead ignoring the belay on the left (route Via Ferraro-Santero-Siri) until underbeneath an overhang with a notch (IV). Pass through the break (IV+) and continue ahead to a ledge at the base of smooth slabs (IV).
Pitch 4 Climb up slabs following a thin crack (V, VI) and reach the base of the corner on the left. This is the crux pitch.
Pitch 5 Continue up the corner (IV) and exit up slabs (IV, IV+) until under an overhang. Move left (V+) and surmount the overhang (IV+).
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Pitch 6 Climb up slabs until under a roof system crossing the upper section of the wall (III, III+). Reach a ledge (escape on the left following the ledge to a narrow gully; descending the gully on the North face - II moves - you will reach the rocky slopes of Punta Caprera).
Pitch 7 Follow the crack on the left and after about 10 meters traverse left and up to the belay (IV).
Pitch 8 Continue following the crack, exit right up slabs (V+) and continue ahead reaching the left ridge (IV+, V). From here you can descend on the left or continue climbing to the summit following the ridge (III, IV. No fixed protections).
DESCENT Abseiling along the ascent route (you can ignore only the belay under the roof system). From the summit you can also reach the ledges leading to Guillemin Pass.
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