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titolo: la montagna per tutti
Gear || Climbing routes || Boulder ||


WE SPEAK ABOUT:
ROCK CLIMBING:

ORCO VALLEY
Torre di Aimonin - "PESCE D'APRILE"


It is a superb route, with very widely spaced bolts for protection and good fixed belay anchors. Possibilities for medium-sized cams. The climbing is varied and exposed: a "must do"!

Difficulty: D+ / 5C.

Length: 170 m.

Gear: Friends (up to #3) - Two 50m. twin ropes.

Itinerario di salita di Pesce d'Aprile

sul diedro di pesce d'aprile APPROACH: Drive along the road that picks up the Orco valley, towards Ceresole Reale up to Noasca. Park your car and walk uphill towards the waterfall. Go behind the church and take a path leading to the Noaschetta valley (turn right just before the waterfall - signs on boulders). The path traverse right, becoming steeper and steeper. Then scramble up a rocky and grassy gully on the left (20/25 minutes from Noasca).


Pitch 1 Follow a ramp rightwards to the base of a corner on a wide ledge (fixed belay anchors - 1 bolt at the beginning);

Pitch 2 Ascend a right facing corner. Climb a wall (about 4 m. - many possibilities for cams) and exit (5a). Traverse right to the next belay.
Please note that you can connect the first two pitches with 50m. ropes, but it can cause some rope drag (friction) as the route zigzags

Pitch 3 Traverse rightwards along the lip of an overhang (1 piton). Move past a big chockstone and a flake to reach a grassy ledge on the right (5b).

Pitch 4 Layback the obvious flake (7 meters - 1 bolt over the flake - possibilities for cam). Continue slightly right up a slab towards a corner (5c)

Pitch 5 Reach the corner following a crack to the left (1 piton before the corner). Stem the corner (possibilities for cams into the crack) and exit up a slab on the left (1 bolt). Reach the belay station on the left face of the corner. (great 5c climb - about 30 m).

Pitch 6 Follow a crack, first to the right and then to the left, to a piton. Ascend an overhanging corner (many possibilities for cams; 1 fixed nut and 1 piton) and continue diagonally right towards a tree (5b).

Pitch 7 Reach the tree above (1 bolt) and follow a crack. Exit up loose rocks (1 bolt) and reach a tree belay (5a).

DESCENT From the belay there are two possibilities:
- traverse right and down on a thin, grassy ledge to a wider ledge where you will found the abseil point of the route "papaveri e papere" (dangerous scramble)
- or scramble up and left to reach the abseil point of the route "via dello Spigolo".


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