A good route to practice trad climbing. Most of the route is a III, III+ climb, with one IV move; it is a logical route up to the end of the chimney (pitch 4); then you need to reach the ridge above looking for the easiest route (very few bolts at the beginning).

Difficulty: AD

Elevation gain: 400 m - 4 ore

Gear: nuts, cams, 3-4 slings, 4-5 biners, 5-6 draws. Some old pegs in place (only at cruxes) and fixed belay (bolts to be inspected).

Updated September 2000

On pitch 2. On the top side, the clear entrance of the chimney on pitch 4

APPROACH : Following the trail leading to Colle Greguri, look for a faint trail heading off to the base of the Eastern base of the rock; the route starts about 100m left of an array of corners, near a vertical crack that then bends left. Head a little tree 10 m above the starting point (belay).

Climb up to the little tree on a ledge where belaying (10m. - III).
Traverse right up to a crack (IV move - 1 cam in place) and follow it up to the next belay (35m. - III).
Climb the crack and a shallow overhang. Belay on a ledge (30m III+).
Enter the narrow chimney above (you might have to climb without your backpack!!!) up to the end on a ledge (2 bolts for belaying - 50m. - III-).
Continue climbing easy slabs on the right up to a tree (150 m., few bolts), bend left and reach the ridge leading to the summit.

DESCENT: follow the path of the Southern Ridge.

ROCCA PROVENZALE:ROUTE BONELLI

ROCCA PROVENZALE:
ROUTE BONELLI