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ROCK CLIMBING:

VALLONE DI BOURCET
Spigolo Grigio - Variante di destra (Grey Arete - Right variation)


Pitch 1 of Spigolo Grigio
Pitch 1 of Spigolo Grigio
Updated October 2007

Spigolo Grigio and all its variation starts (all first climbed by Fiorenzo Michelin in the '80s) begin on the right side of the main trail of the valley at about 20 minutes from the parking lot, a few meters past single-pitch area and central sector.
The name of almost all routes is market at the base of each route.

This area offers a variety of continous and sustained climbs on excellent granite (you can seldom find lichened rocks). Difficulties between 5a and 6a+.
Bolts are generally widely spaced, but hardest stretches provide plenty of fixed protection (bolts and pegs). However you can easily set cams and nuts (medium size)


Spigolo Grigio:

Difficulty: TD+ / max 6a.
Length: 180 m.
Gear: Two 50m. twin ropes (or one single rope since you can walk back down upon completion of the route), 7-8 quick-draws, friends and nuts.

Pitch 1 Climb the arete using cracks on the right to a slight overhang. Continue up a crack and escape up a big rock on the right side (20 m - 5b)

Pitch 2 Move slightly left and follow a crack. Continue up the corner to a ledge. (20 m - 5b)

Pitch 3 Climb up the left face of the corner (cracks), then directly up the wall to a wide ledge (aim to a bolt on the right roof). You can belay on the big tree (chain) (20 m - 5b)

Pitch 4 Superb pitch! Climb the narrow chimney to a ledge. Jam a wide crack in a corner (you can place a big friend) to a narrow ledge. Follow another corner and exit on the belay ledge on the right. I suggest to ignore this belay and continue climbing up the short wall on the left (4-5 m slab), to the above belay ledge (40 m - 5c). Thus you directly get beneath the crux roof.

Pitch 5 Climb the wide left facing corner above heading left (1 wooden chock and 2 fixed pitons); then move to the left until underneath the awkward overhang (a good 6a or A1). Continue up the short wall leading to a comfortable ledge (25 m - 6a)

Pitch 6 The easiest pitch. Climb up and left the crack system and get into a vertical corner. Climb this corner and reach the top up easy rocks (25 m - 4c)

Pitch 7 Watch out for fixed pitons... From belay station there are two options. You can either climb the short vertical wall (5b) or traverse right and climb diagonally left the first slab (4a). Continue ahead up a crack system, then bend right aiming the cross on the top of the ridge (30 m.). At the base of the cross you can find the summit book.

Pitch 4 of Spigolo Grigio
Pitch 4 of Spigolo Grigio

Right variations:

Two variations are possible.
The first, "Diedro delle Lucertole", is harder (6a);
the second one starting more right will be described here below. This great 3-pitch route is a sustained and continous 5c.

Difficulty: TD / max 6a (5c obbl)
Length: 80 m.
Pitch 1 Climb a rock system, a slab and then a corner, heading slightly left to a little tree underbeneath a roof (20 m - 5b)

Pitch 2 Move right off the belay; climb left a short slab with a crack and pull over the roof on the right. Climb the great corner above following the narrow crack (you can place a micro-nut between the second and third bolt) to the bolted belay on a wide ledge (35m - 5c/6a)

Pitch 3 Climb the short wall using a flake. Continue left up a slab (better on the left side) and reach the large belay ledge. (25 m - 5b/5c)

Move left along the ledge towards a big tree (the tree belay of the third pitch of the original route).

Pitch 2 of the Variante di Destra (right variation)
Pitch 2 of the Variante di Destra (right variation)

Descent: abseiling is possible, but walking back down is better.
From the summit cross hike down and right into the gully (Northern side) protected by cable and steps in the most difficult spots.
At the bottom of the gully you will the trail to the parking lot.


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