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CLIMBING IN LIGURIA:
Rocca du Fò - Nuova via Andrea e Paolo
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Rocca du Fò
Nuova via Andrea e Paolo
D+ 225m max V (or IV/V+ and A0/A1)
E.DOTTA - C.ROCCATI - R.RUDINO - D.DOTTA - M.PICCO
Info and photos: Cristian Roccati and Ernesto Dotta
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DESCRIPTION
Rocca du Fò sits in Genoa hinterland - Genova Voltri. You can reach it driving along the Cerusa stream.
ò. You can climb it all year long except in windy winter days.
GETTING THERE
Take highway A10 (Genova-Ventimiglia), exit Genova Voltri and turn right onto Aurelia Route bound to Savona. Just after the last two houses of Voltri, bear right to "Fabbriche". Past under the highway take the steep slope down on the left (Via Sambugo). Park at the end of the street (just 1 place).
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APPROACH (about 20 min.)
Take the path uphill (do not cross the bridge) folliwing red round markers. Hike through the heather meadow on the right side and continue along the hillside. Cross two little streams and continue scrambling along the second stream (a few stretches of I grade) to reach a gully at the base of an obvious corner. Here starts the route. The name of the route ("Via Andrea e Paolo") is written with red paint.
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THE ROUTE
PITCH 1: III+/IV 20 m - 4 bolts + 1 peg
Climb the corner (III+), move 2 meters left (grass) and continue on rock (IV) to a grassy, spacious ledge. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor with sling and rap ring.
PITCH 2: IV/IV+ 20 m - 5 bolts + 1 peg
Climb up a slab to the flake above a short overhanging (IV+). Continue right and then straight up on a technical wall with a crack system. Climb an easier stretch and then an overhanging flake with good holds (IV+) to reach a tree belay with sling and rap ring.
PITCH 3: IV+/V 25 m - 7 bolts
Scramble for 15 m following the red round markers to a corner. Climb it (V or A0 using the first two bolts) and continue up a slab (IV+) to a leaning arete on the left. Belay on its top. (2 bolts with sling and a rap ring).
PITCH 4: I + 20 m path with fixed wire cable
From the belay follow the fixed wire cable rightwards.
PITCH 5: IV+ 15 m - 5 bolts + 1 peg + 1 sling
From the end of the cable climb a slab becoming steeper. Continue rightwards reaching a small buttress. You can climb it either as a arete or as a corner on the right (IV+). Exit up a grassy ledge at the base of the pillar. Tree belay with sling and rap ring. |
Topo (click here to enlarge)
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PITCH 6: IV+/V 35 m - 12 bolts + 1 peg
Move left aiming the first bolt. Climb a short wall reaching the pillar. Continue rightwards to an easy flake with good holds. Climb it leftwards to the crux. Using a clear small hold (V) exit up a technical slab (IV+). Climb the corner on the left to a grassy ledge. Belay on 2 bolts with rap ring.
PITCH 7: IV+/V 25 m - 6 bolts + 2 pegs + 1 sling
From the belay climb the slab rightwards to a grassy stretch reaching a harder wall (V). Climb it straight up and then leftwards to a traverse. Climb leftwards a very good flake (IV+) and move up a slab to a ledge. Belay on 2 bolts with sling and rap ring.
PITCH 8: IV+/V 30 m - 6 bolts + 4 pegs
Climb up a short wall. Continue leftwards dodging round an arete to a tricky slab that actually is a corner (V): overcome it doing the splits. In this section the bolts are closely spaced. Move right up easy rock, continue up a little buttress on the left and climb a slightly overhanging corner (IV). Alternatively you can scramble the grassy gully on the right. Belay on 2 bolts with sling and rap ring.
PITCH 9: IV/IV+ 15 m - 6 bolts + 2 pegs
Follows the marked path leftward for about 30 m to the base of the last pillar. At the top of the featured, vertical wall (IV+) you can either belay (2 bolts with sling and rap ring) or continue climbing the next pitch.
PITCH 10: III+ 15 m - 5 bolts
Climb a leaning slab (III) becoming steeper (III+) to a grassy ledge. Belay on 2 bolts with sling and rap ring.
PITCH 11: IV 15 m - 5 bolts
Continue leftwards to the west facing slab. After a few meters, traverse leftwards to the north face where you can soon find a bolt. Continue straight up to the summit of Rocca du Fò. Belay on 2 bolts with sling and rap ring.
on pitch 2
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the traverse of pitch 7
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DESCENT
From the summit follow a faint path leftwards. Hike down to a grassy slope taking the first path on the right (do not continue down the slope). At first the path goes up, then continues flat for a few meter and the begins to go down passing through a heather meadow for about 25 meters. Pass on the left a hunting spot and continue up scree entering the woods and crossing a stream leftwards.
Continue on the ridge to the last meadows and cross another stream reaching the approach trail (go rightwards).
All the belay stations are equipped to abseil off but it's not advisable to do it.
WAYS OUT
From the belay station of the 1st, 3rd and 5th pitch you can retreat scrambling down the gullies on the right side.
From the start of the 9th pitch, that is to say at the base of the last pillar, you can find a faint path leftwards. Follow it for 7'-8' and reach a scree slope. Scrambling down the scree slope to its base you will reach the marked path. From the belay station of the 10th pitch you can reach the summit scrambling up on the right.
THE HISTORY OF THE ROUTE
In June 2003, a very serious accident occurred to Andrea Maria and Riccardo Rudino while abseiling off the Cima Mondini (Maritime Alps): Andrea fell down and Riccardo wasn't able to hold his friend. When Riccardo was well again (the accident caused him various injuries), he restarted climbing with another friend, Paolo Salata. Paolo and Riccardo talked often about establishing a new climbing route to dedicate to their friend. Unfortunately, after a year of climbing Paolo died of an incurable disease. As the time went by Riccardo returned to climb and equipped this new route with the help of two of his friends (Saverio and Maurizio) using some self-made gear.
In April 2007 Riccardo asked Christian Roccati and Michele Picco to replace the fixed protection.
In October Christian, Michele and Ernesto and "Dino" Dotta made an inspection. But only after almost two years could Christian and Ernesto begin the work. During a month of hard work, Christian and Ernesto equipped a new route (keeping however the original line) and made the approaching path practicable.
On October 13, 2009 Christian and Ernesto free climbed the new route Andrea e Paolo to test and supplement the fixed protection.
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