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CLIMBING IN LIGURIA:
ALPICELLA CRAG
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GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION. Monte Castellaro crag lies near the village of Alpicella (in the hinterland of Varazze - Savona) bording on Beigua Natural Park.
View map
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APPROACH: From the A10 (coming from Genova or Savona) leave at Varazze and turn right to the center of the town. Follow signs for Sassello-Alpicella, driving along the Teiro stream. Pass through the village of "Il Pero" and take the right fork to Alpicella (signs for Sassello, Stella S.Martino).
Just before the cemetery of Alpicella (wide stretch), take the left fork and follow the narrow road up to a wide stretch on the left side (4/5 car parking slots available).
Take the dirt road starting in front of the parking lot and turn left after a few meters (2 white marked cairns), hiking a steep slope into the woods for about 10 minutes.
Please respect the natural environment. |
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The crag was recently discovered and bolted by the team "Vecchie Beline" : Renato Berruti (Biro), Ernesto Dotta (Erne), Secondo Dotta (Dino, born in 1929), Marco Minuto (Minu), Marco Rebagliati (Rebba) and Marco Ferrando made and are still making a huge and careful work of cleaning, opening and bolting new routes.
Many compliments to the team for the excellent work.
Difficulties range from 3+/4 to overhanging 6b on different types of rock: slabs, corners, roofs, ...
However, also the easier routes are not trivial.
Some routes reach 90 meters (2 or 3 pitches). A 60 meters rope is long enough to abseil or top roping.
On April 2007 some very easy routes have been bolted for the younger climbers (on the left side of the "Corpo Principale", sector "Scarusci"). In the same period another sector has been bolted (20-30 meters left of the "Corpo Principale"): routes range from 5c to 6a+. Among them the route "provaci ancora .. roc", dedicated to the forum (many thanks!!!).
Thanks to the contribution in fixed protection from "Versante Sud" and "Raumer", in autumn 2007 the team "Vecchie Beline" cleaned and bolted a new sector in the North-Eastern side of the crag. The first three routes range from 4 to 5b and a harder route is scheduled to be opened.
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See a page of the guidebook.
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A rock sign indicates the starting point of each route.
Rock is very reliable: excellent grip on slabs, but the helmet is recommended as the crag is very recent.
The crag offers about 40 climbing routes. If you are interested in opening a new route, please contact the "Vecchie Beline", to keep uniformity in grading and bolting.
You can find the guidebook at "Ai Cacciatori" and "Baccere e Baciccia", two restaurants where having something to eat and drink after climbing.
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